Billiam Jeans

Your hunt for selvedge denim is over


When our Cobbler-in-Chief was looking for the perfect selvedge denim jeans to add to his wardrobe, it was the discovery of Billiam Jeans, a small American brand that caught his eye.

Established in late 2010 in Greenville, South Carolina, Billiam’s collection of jeans are all hand-made in house and the denim sourced from the legendary Cone Mills, North Carolina.

“It was clear to me that Billiam’s obsession with detail was what so clearly defined them. I fell in love with their story and authenticity from the off. After

contacting them to make me a pair, tailored exactly to my requirements and needs, I’ve never bought from another brand since.” Tim Cooper, Cobbler-in-Chief.

Now our Cobbler-in-Chief and Billiam Jean founder, Bill Mitchell, have teamed up to create an exclusive collaboration of selvedge denim jeans that will be sold exclusively at Oliver Sweeney.

“I am self-taught, learning the trade through trial & error, and deconstructing garments to investigate how they are made.

What defines Billliam Jeans is our dedication to using only the finest American sourced and made selvedge denim, thread and hardware"
Bill Mitchel

This collaboration is crafted from 13.75oz red line selvedge denim from Cone Mills in North Carolina. Look closely and you’ll notice little white ‘picks’ every so often. These are the marks of where the loom has reached the shuttle point during the manufacturing process. It’s these intricate details that are only found when using original vintage looms that make the final product completely unique.

These styles are complete with a leather back patch, sourced from Steads of Leeds where a number of the pull-up leather from the OS trainer and boots collection. It’s these small details that make a link through the product.

The defining features on any pair of jeans are the back pockets. Using a single lock stitch to secure the position, the pockets are lined with 8oz chambray for extra definition and security.

The pocket bags on the front of the jeans are made with 12oz natural denim and feature a chain stitch using a Union Special lap seam. There is even a change pocket with a visible selvedge.

A strong waistband makes the perfect jean. Lined with natural denim that allows you to tuck in a shirt without fear of indigo transferring. The belt loops are sewn into the waistband for extra reinforcement, particularly handy if you’re prone to using them to pull up your jeans.

Probably the most fascinating detail is the selvedge line on the inside of the jean leg. A 1940s Union Special 43200g is used to create the chain stitched hem which neatly finishes the jeans. Roll up the cuffs to show off the intricacy of the selvedge finish and to better see your Sweeneys, of course!

billiam jeans
selvedge jeans
Published August 2016