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Shoe Last Guide

At Oliver Sweeney, the last always comes first

All of our shoe lasts are created by our Cobbler-in-Chief, initially as hand-sculpted wooden prototypes. These shapes are used then precision turned by machines into the hard styrene lasts that we use in our factories.

Our shoes are built around our unique Anatomical Last that mimics the profiles of the human foot and results in the precise proportions and sculpted fit we demand. its unique design, has been refined after years of intensive research and exclusive to Oliver Sweeney. Sculpted to give a support to the arch, a gentle twist through its length simulates the natural shape of the foot, and helps reduce rolling in the outside.

All subtly different, each of our shoe lasts have differing shapes, features and details that give them unique characteristics and make them appropriate for different styles of shoe.

ELEGANT SOFT CHISEL

This last is versatile and stylish in equal measure. With it’s long elegant vamp finishing with a soft chisel toe profile it is just as suited to casual Chelsea boots as it is formal lace up suit shoes. The classic nature of the toe shape means that it’s a timeless style statement.

  • Classic soft chisel toe
  • Long elegant vamp
  • Classic fit
Last 102
Last 102 Shoes

ELEGANT CHISEL AND FIN

Initially created for our Deliceto style, this last is a modified version of the 102 last and features a subtle but distinctive fin-like ridge on the toe. This feature only goes to make the shoes made on it more elegant and is used on some of our most refined hand finished shoes.

  • Classic soft chisel toe with fin-like ridge detail
  • long elegant vamp
  • Classic fit
Last 103
Last 103 Shoes

ALMOND SWUNG

Originally devised for our Bologna collection, this last has a long swung almond toe profile meaning that it’s versatile enough to work with a range of materials such as deer leather, suede and classic calf for formal or casual looks.

  • Long almond toe shape
  • Long vamp
  • Medium swing
  • Classic fit
Last 107
Last 107 Shoes

Elegant Square

A Sweeney classic, this last has been in our range for a number of seasons and is a perfect base for a range of formal options. Whether used on a wingcap derby or an apron boot, this is a great go-to last for a classic suit shoe.

  • Classic square toe
  • Long vamp
  • Slightly wider fit
  • medium swing
Last 108
Last 108 Shoes

ROUND TOE

With the rounder toe this last is a perfect choice for either a casual look or a more contemporary shape to wear with formal clothes. Devised to used with our Bologna collection, it is every bit as elegant and refined as you’d expect from a Sweeney shoe but with softer lines which suit the flexibility of this construction perfectly.

  • Round toe
  • Slightly larger fitting
  • Slightly shorter vamp
last 109
Last 109 Shoes

REFINED ROUND TOE

This is an extremely elegant last with a beautifully distinctive toe profile. This last suits shoes and boots with only the highest levels of hand finished leathers to give a crisp formal look.

  • Elegant round toe
  • Classic fit
  • Medium vamp length
last 110
Last 110 Shoes

SQUARE CHISEL

This last perfectly combines the formality of a square toe with elegance of a slight chisel to the toe. It has a slight wall to the edge of the last and beautiful curve to the cone giving a fantastic overall shape.

  • Slightly softened square toe
  • Short chisel shape to toe
  • Classic fit
last 112
Last 112 Shoes

SHORT TOE LOAFER

This was a last specifically developed to make a bologna construction loafer on. It’s a slightly shorter last to ensure a close fit without any heel slip. The toe features a chisel shape which works well with the stitched apron on the vamp.

  • Chisel toe shape
  • Shorter look for close fit
shoe last 114
Last 114 Shoes

ELEGANT ALMOND TOE

This last was designed to blur the border between formal and casual, allowing shoes to cross over from the office to the weekend with minimal effort. The classic fit and slight almond toe creates a beautiful last with a timeless and versatile shape.

  • Slight almond toe
  • Classic fit
  • Slimmer toe box
last 115 shoes and boots
Last 115 Shoes

REFINED SOFT SQUARE

In our mission to design washed shoes, we needed to craft a last that worked well with the look hence the 116 was created to construct this feel. The soft square toe is slightly bulkier to enhance the distressed look, whilst being refined to elevate your look with jeans or chinos.

  • Soft square toe
  • Classic fit
  • Slightly profound toe box
last 116 shoes and boots
Last 116 Shoes

SOFT SQUARE TOE

This is the last that we build our classic Aldeburgh Oxford shoe on, we think it’s the perfect semi-formal brogue last. With a strong but rounded side wall and elegant toe shape, this last ideally suits shoes that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion and also looks stunning on plain vamped shoes or boots.

  • Soft square toe
  • Long vamp
  • Classic fit
Last 301
Last 301 Shoes

CLASSIC ROUND

The classic Goodyear welted last which works perfectly on brogues as well as plain toes shoes and boots. This is perfect for casual shoes and boots and looks great with burnished calf leathers as well as casual suedes and textured leathers.

  • Short rounded toe
  • Medium vamp
  • Classic fit
Last 303
Last 303 Shoes

LONG ROUND SWUNG

This last was specially designed for our Un-Square Mile collection and is the result of many rounds of refinement to create the perfect formal Goodyear welted last. With a long swung toe with an elegant round profile it proportioned ideally to sit on a single thickness leather sole to create an impeccable suit shoe.

  • Long round toe
  • Swung profile
  • Classic fit
shoe last 304
Last 304 Shoes

LUXURY CUPSOLE

This is the classic cupsole trainer last for a more luxury silhouette. With a slightly narrow fit the last creates very elegant shoes and forms an ideal canvas for the use of beautifully hand finished uppers.

  • Luxury rounded toe
  • Slightly narrow fit
shoe last 501
Last 501 Shoes

RUNNER

This last was developed specifically for our interpretation of a runner style shoe which featured a light weight sole and flexible Bologna construction. The shape is a little wider in the forefoot for a comfortable casual look.

  • Classic runner shape
  • Wider toe box for casual fit
last 701 shoes
Last 701 Shoes