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GOODYEAR WELTED | BLAKE STITCHED | BOLOGNA | CUPSOLE | NORWEGIAN | BOLOGNA GOODYEAR | MOCCASIN
This traditional English construction has been around for over 150 years. The upper is stitched (Good year welted) to a ridge on the insole and a strip of leather – the rand. The outer sole is then attached by stitching through rand, midsole and sole around the outside of the shoe. This keeps water away from the upper, resulting in a sturdy and practical construction, that can be resoled many times.
This is a speciality of our Italian factory in Le Marche. The upper is stitched to the outsole from the inside of the shoe. As no rand is required the result is a sleeker, more elegant profile, making it an ideal construction for formal shoes.
This Italian speciality dates from the early 1900s. The upper is stitched to a soft leather sock rather than a traditional insole board, to form a ‘glove’. This is then blake stitched from the inside of the shoe to the sole. The resultant sleek profile produces an exceptionally comfortable formal shoe.
Unlike a vulcanised construction where the sole is baked onto the upper, our cupsoles are made in the traditional way. The upper is lasted to a soft insole, the cupsole is then secured by stitching around the top of the rim to the upper. This produces a comfortable, practical shoe with a more refined look.
Taking the principals of the Goodyear welted method the Norwegian welt includes an extra visible stitch row. Instead of disappearing under the upper, the rand is stitched from the outside of the shoe through the upper and the ridge on the insole. This forms a protective lip around the join of the upper to the sole. The upper is then stitched to the outsole through the rand and midsole. A durable and practical construction ideal for hiking boots and sturdy outdoor shoes.
Rather than stretching the upper down over the last, the peather is wrapped underneath and pulled upwards. Excess leather around the apron is trimmed away, before a plug is stitched in place by hand; the upper is then Blake stitched as normal to the sole.