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GOODYEAR WELTED | BLAKE STITCHED | BOLOGNA | BOLOGNA GOODYEAR | CUPSOLE | MOCCASIN | CEMENTED
A high quality shoemaking process that originated over 150 years ago, that involves stitching the welt to the upper and inner then to the sole ensuring a long lasting shoe. The quality of our Goodyear welted range lies in the natural materials we use for each style as much as it does in the craftsmanship of each design.
Our Italian artisan's specialty, Blake-stitched shoes are made by attaching a lasted leather upper to a leather insole and then stitching through the sole. This results in a sleeker, slimmed down profile; the ideal construction for formal shoes.
A construction dating from the turn of the last century, it is also known as Sacchetto, meaning 'little bag'. The upper is built like a glove with a stitched sock made of soft leather rather than a traditional insole. This is particularly testing for the pattern makers, as it has no allowances. The result is a formal shoe with the comfort properties of the softest slipper.
It took us a year to perfect this innovative construction. Combining the best features of the Goodyear Welted and Bologna constructions, the result is the best of both worlds: a formal construction that's as comfortable as a slipper.
The upper is lasted traditonally to an insole as you would find in any of our italian blake stitched shoes. This provides a superior longevity of wear.
Rather than stretching the upper down over the last, the peather is wrapped underneath and pulled upwards. Excess leather around the apron is trimmed away, before a plug is stitched in place by hand; the upper is then Blake stitched as normal to the sole.
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